8 December 2019
I had been preparing for this tramp ("hike" for the non-Kiwis) for the best part of the year, scouring blogs of the track's previousvictims adventurers and outdoors websites for sales (chur Kathmandu). My mother in Dunedin received all sorts of parcels, not sure if the neighbours thought she was dealing meth (she wasn't, to best of my knowledge).
There are two ways of getting to Oban, the only town on Stewart Island: fly from Invercargill or take the ferry from Bluff. Foveaux Strait is famously rough at times even in calm weather, I elected to take the ferry over as the plane wouldn't allow gas cans and I correctly assumed they'd be much more expensive on the island. That and my pack was ridiculously heavy. I did fly back at the end though #TreatYoself
I had been preparing for this tramp ("hike" for the non-Kiwis) for the best part of the year, scouring blogs of the track's previous
There are two ways of getting to Oban, the only town on Stewart Island: fly from Invercargill or take the ferry from Bluff. Foveaux Strait is famously rough at times even in calm weather, I elected to take the ferry over as the plane wouldn't allow gas cans and I correctly assumed they'd be much more expensive on the island. That and my pack was ridiculously heavy. I did fly back at the end though #TreatYoself
I had three maps with me: the Department of Conservation track guide which gives a fluffy daily overview written by some clown who hadn't actually done the walk, a full-sized topographical map cut up and laminated for each day and a large waterproof topographical map which was the best thing ever as it had a satellite image on the reverse.
After checking into the South Sea Hotel, right on the waterfront, I set to work pulling everything out and making piles of clothing, food, first aid etc so I could repack what I needed and be ready to roll early the next day as I planned to skip the first hut since it was apparently only 4 hours' walk there (ha) and apparently 4 to the next one (ROFL) so a nice 8-hour day to get me started (stop it). This was the first delusion, bless my little cotton socks.
I then sallied forth to the Rakiura National Park Visitor Centre to register my intentions, hire a Personal Locator Beacon and set my "panic date" when the cavalry go looking for my body. It was NZ$70 which is not too bad at all, plus it's small and light and easy to use. Some bring a mountain radio which can be a wee bit heavier, I reckon that has benefits since you can talk to a person and explain your situation; the PLB goes off and it could be anything from being lost to falling off a cliff (both of which almost happened).
I then sallied forth to the Rakiura National Park Visitor Centre to register my intentions, hire a Personal Locator Beacon and set my "panic date" when the cavalry go looking for my body. It was NZ$70 which is not too bad at all, plus it's small and light and easy to use. Some bring a mountain radio which can be a wee bit heavier, I reckon that has benefits since you can talk to a person and explain your situation; the PLB goes off and it could be anything from being lost to falling off a cliff (both of which almost happened).
With a population of 408 people, the pub at the South Sea Hotel is the hub and everybody knows everybody. As I was sitting in the sun room weighing and bagging servings of prunes, scroggin and jerky, I met a trio of older ladies down from the North Island; next thing you know I'm on their trivia team downstairs with a very nice lady from DOC (Birgit) having a lovely evening with some brand new friends. I had a feeling I would soon be missing friends. And cold beer. And meals cooked by someone else. And music. The trivia night is a (or "the") key event on the weekly social calendar for many locals, so it got loud, busy and a whole lot of fun!
Calling it a night, I left my new friends to enjoy my last night in a ready-made bed. And ponder what the heck I was going to do in the morning with ALL THIS BLOODY STUFF! Eek.
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| The journey to Stewart Island begins (photo credit: Mike "Wakko" Hamblyn) |
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| Goodbye South Island! |
I have never heard of a Personal Locator Beacon, how cool. And I am not surprised you had 3 maps on you, for you are quite a good planner (citation: commenter's Buck's night). I'm guessing from the photo credit that you drove down to the ferry terminal with the fam bam.
ReplyDeleteYes Mum drove me down, they made a minibreak out of it (they regret choosing Invercargill). She may have been hoping I changed my mind en route!
DeleteThat feeling of nervous excitement before doing a day walk for the first time, after cramming the tracknotes brochure the night before..
ReplyDeleteI can't imagine what you felt after months of study and preparation, and finally being there..
Would be interesting to see what you packed and what your thoughts were after, and what you would take next time. (Including meat trays won from trivia!). Love NZ hospitality & friendly locals.. I'm already sensing the warm bed will be sorely missed in the next journal entries!
It was a bit surreal but I felt prepared which helped...then I put my pack on and realised it was going to be interesting!
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